Corn season is finally here in the Midwest. Sure, you can buy the golden ears year round at the grocery store, but canned or frozen can’t compare to fresh off the cob and right off the farm. July 4 is the unofficial kick off date for corn season in this area, says Don Callow, with Callows Farm Fresh Produce in Barnard, Mo. He is one of several farmers who will be selling corn at the Pony Express Farmer’s Market in St. Joseph. The season usually runs eight to 10 weeks until around Labor Day, he says, although there have been a few years where he has seen it until the first of October. But before you race off to the market, we found out a few things you should know:

PICK THE FRESHEST

The corn should look fresh, Mr. Callow says. The shucks need to be a bright green color. The end should look fresh. The tassel of silk should be yellow or golden brown, silky and glossy with the appearance of moisture close to the tip.

“You don’t want kernels to be indented,” Mr. Callow says. “That’s a sign they are old.”

And although you may have heard to prick a kernel to see if it’s fresh, that’s not necessary, he says. The theory is that the milk of the kernel will squirt out if it’s fresh. But if it looks fresh, that’s enough evidence. In fact, farmers and customers, too, would rather you didn’t put your fingernails in the corn for double checking.

Finally, be very careful of corn that is packaged in clear wrap with the shucks off. He says it may be a convenience not to have to shuck it, but sometimes corn is repackaged that way after their shucks turn brown.

STORE IT

Once you get the corn home, leave the husks on to help the corn retain moisture. But don’t leave it in the plastic sack you bought it in, Mr. Callow says. “It sweats, you don’t want that.” And corn degrades quickly, so you should only buy what you plan to eat in a day or two. The exception is some of the newer varieties of triple sweet corn (Ambrosia and Temptation). He says they develop sugar a day or two after picking so they could last from seven to 10 days after being picked and still be good of quality.

COOK IT

The most common and easiest way to fix corn on the cob is to simply shuck it, boil for five minutes and slather with butter and salt. Even faster is to microwave it. Allrecipes.com suggests wetting a paper towel and wringing it out. Wrap the ear of corn in the moist towel, and place on a dinner plate. Then cook in the microwave for five minutes.

Roasting it on the grill is Mr. Callow’s favorite way to eat it. He first pulls back the husks, removes the silk and then soaks the corn for 30 minutes in cold water.

“Soaking adds moisture,” he says.

When you pull the shucks back over the corn, the extra moisture steams the corn so it doesn’t dry out.

INTERNATIONAL FlAVOR

At the Pony Express Farmers Market, Hnue Vang, with Vang Produce in Union Star, will be selling a variety of corn her mother grew up eating when she lived in Laos.

“We’re Hmong,” she says, “so we will have native corn to see if everyone likes it.”

It looks very similar to American corn, she says, but is only six inches long. You can eat it hot or cold. Traditionally, the little corn is eaten cool or cold, something like a dessert, she says.

Or fix your corn the Mexican way. After shucking, put a thin layer of mayonnaise on the corn, then add a little Parmesan cheese, chili powder and a squirt of lime. Do this after boiling or before roasting.

“It’s very popular way to eat it,” says Christa Bautista, owner of El Mexicano store in St. Joseph. “I’ve been to five or six different areas in Mexico and I’ve seen it in every part I’ve been in.”

Make it even simpler and buy Mexican mayonnaise which has the lime already added.

Or make Mexican succotash, says “The Enchilada Lady” Debbie Lehmer, one of the vendors at the Pony Express Farmers Market. Mix fresh corn off the cob with zucchini, tomatoes and onion, and you’ll have some of the season’s freshest produce in one bite.

See more corn recipes below. And for more information on when fresh corn and other produce is available at the Pony Express Farmers Market, visit www.ponyexpressfarmersmarket.com

Lifestyles reporter Sylvia Anderson may be reached at sylviaanderson@npgco.com

Mexican succotash

1 pound zucchini

4 ears of corn

1 pound tomatoes

1/4 cup butter

1 onion, chopped

Salt and pepper

Cut zucchini in small pieces. Cut kernels from corn. Peel and cube tomatoes. Cook onion in butter until lightly colored. Add vegetables, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer about 25 minutes or until tender. Stir occasionally not to scorch. Serves six.

— Enchilada Lady Favorites” by Debbie Lehmer

Corn pudding

3 ears large kernel corn

4 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons melted butter

2 eggs, separated

Break skin of corn kernels by grating slightly. Scrape with a table knife to remove all the pulp from the cob. Place corn pulp in a bowl. Add sugar, cinnamon and salt. Beat egg yolks slightly. Add with butter to corn mixture. Mix well. Beat egg whites until fluffy. Fold into corn mixture. Pour into a one-quart casserole dish. Place in a pan of water. Bake at 325 degrees for one hour. Serves four to six.

— Enchilada Lady Favorites” by Debbie Lehmer

Fresh corn salad

5 ears of sweet corn, husked and silk removed

1/2 cup small-diced red onion

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Chile pepper, to taste

1/2 cup chiffonade fresh basil leaves (directions follow)

Scrape the corn kernels from the ears of corn by using a sharp kitchen knife and a large cutting board. Cut off the stem end to give a flat base. Hold the ear, tip end up, then cut downward, removing a few rows at a time. In a large pot partially filled with water, bring water to a rolling boil. Add the corn kernels to the boiling water. Bring water back up to a boil; immediately remove from heat and drain corn in a colander in your sink. Run cold water over the corn in the colander to stop the cooking process; drain the corn thoroughly. In a large bowl, gently combine corn kernels, red onions, vinegar, olive oil, salt, pepper and chile. Adjust seasonings to taste. Refrigerate the salad until approximately 1/2 hour before serving. Just before serving, toss in the fresh basil. Taste for seasonings and serve cold or at room temperature. Makes about four or five servings.

To make chiffonade, stack basil leaves, then cut across the stack to make small “ribbons.”

— www.whatscookingamerica.net